Perennials: Spring and Fall Chores
Spring Bulbs (tulips,
daffodils, hyacinths, crocus, etc.):
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If you
planted them last fall, they should be good to go. If they have been in place
for a while, sprinkle a ring of about ¼ C. of bone meal around each set of
shoots as soon as they appear and carefully scratch in with a hand cultivator,
then water in.
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If
leaves emerge, but you don't get flowers, they aren't planted deeply enough.
Wait 'til the leaves fade, then cut them off and add 3-4 more inches of compost
on top.
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If no
leaves emerge, suspect that critters dug up and ate the bulbs. Replant new
bulbs next fall, and put lightweight chicken wire over the ground to foil the
critters.
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If you
cut flowers, leave the leaves. They will make "food" for next year's flowers.
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As the
leaves fade, you can "braid" them, fold them in thirds, and rubber-band them in
a clump so that they aren't so visible in the garden.
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Let
the leaves turn brown and then cut them off at the ground and discard.
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If you
pull leaves out before they're dead, you may disrupt the bulb down below.
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If it
bothers you to have the dying leaves in your garden, interplant annuals and as
they start to bloom and take center stage, the dying bulb leaves won't seem as
unsightly.
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Use
only light mulch in areas where you have spring bulbs, as they need the warmth
from the sun to bloom in early spring. You can always move mulch aside for
them, and once the leaves are about 6" tall, put the mulch back.
Iris:
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Sprinkle
a ring of about ¼ C. of bone meal around each set of shoots as soon as they
appear and carefully scratch in with a hand cultivator, then water in.
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Iris
can be divided any time. They probably need it every three years. It's easiest
when the shoots are just a few inches tall. On a dry day, dig up the clumps and
break them apart with your hands. You will see the "corms," which are ugly -
like flat potatoes. Throw away the central ones. Then replant each corm a
hand-span apart, with the roots going downward in loose compost, and the top
half or third of each corm showing. The sun needs to reach the top part of each
corm to give the energy for the bloom. Firm the compost around the corms, and
water in.
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Water
iris twice a week 'til it blooms, if it doesn't rain much; it needs lots of
water and good drainage.
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Cut
off spent flowers; never pull dead stalks.
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Iris
will bloom best in full sun but will do OK in partial shade.
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In
October or November, take a sturdy pair of scissors and cut each iris clump
into a fan shape about six inches tall. Cut up the left side, across the
middle, and down the right side. Discard the leaves. Next spring, when the new shoots appear, you can cut off the
remaining six inches of last year's leaves. They are there to protect the corms
over the winter.
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Iris
crowds together well and probably doesn't need mulch.
Peonies:
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Sprinkle
a ring of about ½ C. of bone meal around each cluster of shoots (they will be
red or burgundy) as soon as they appear and carefully scratch in with a hand
cultivator, then water in.
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If they
have been in place for many years, you might consider putting a tomato cage
around the shoots when they are still a foot tall or so, so that the branches
don't droop to the ground once they are heavy with blossoms.
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Peonies
like moist soil, but water the soil, not over the top, to avoid leaf disease.
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When
the buds appear, pinch off the side buds with your thumb and forefinger,
leaving just one central bud per shoot. Then you will get bigger blossoms!
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Ants
crawling around on peonies are good. They help open the blossoms. Peony buds
are very sweet. If you bring a bouquet in the house, shake off the ants first!
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Cut
off spent blossoms before the petals spill all over the ground. Cut each shoot
about one-third off; this will put more energy back into the roots for next
year.
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In
October or November, cut away and discard all peony shoots so that bugs and
disease don't appear.
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Almost
all diseases on peonies are because of overcrowding. If you see black spots on
leaves, it's fungus due to poor air circulation. Dig and divide, replanting at
the same depth you dug them up, and keep watered frequently for the first
month.
Day Lilies:
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Sprinkle
a ring of about ¼ C. of bone meal around each set of shoots as soon as they
appear and carefully scratch in with a hand cultivator, then water in.
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It's a
good idea to mulch around day lilies to keep weeds down, although once they
really take off, after a couple of years, they will self-mulch with their many
leaves.
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Let
the flower stalks die to dry brown, as the green replenishes the roots; you
should be able to gently pull them out - if you have to tug, they aren't ready
to come out.
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In
October or November, clump the remaining leaves, and give them a butch haircut,
straight across, about six inches off the ground. Discard leaves. That's it!
Mums:
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Sprinkle
a ring of about ¼ C. of bone meal around each set of shoots as soon as they
appear and carefully scratch in with a hand cultivator, then water in.
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Mums
tend to get too crowded, so when they are 3-4 inches tall, you might dig up the
whole clump, throw away or transplant about two-thirds of the little starts,
and replant just one clump with some good compost. Firm in and water well.
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On the
first of June, July and August, pinch away about one-third of the height of
each shoot in the mum clump with your thumb and forefinger. If you don't do
this, the plant will get too tall and spindly, and when the flower opens, it
will droop to the ground.
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If you
see buds developing before Sept. 1, pinch them away.
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If you
want color in October, pinch just the top set of leaves on Sept. 1. Otherwise,
look for your best color around the second half of September.
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You
can either cut off dead mums to the ground once the blossoms are spent, or just
leave them in the garden 'til spring for a little texture.